Day 2 and 3 - From Dublin City to Waterford City by the Sea

Our second day in Dublin dawned cold and rainy. Banks it turns out suck the world over. (Just before leaving St. Clair County, I brought in all my change saved from last year. My bank informed me they no longer take loose change, yes that's right, my bank no longer takes money). Leo, Toni, David, Genny, Jerry and I trekked up to Grafton street to change some USD to Euros and break a few hundred Euro notes. Leo was told Ulster Bank wouldn't break large notes. The result was the same at National Bank of Ireland until he told them he was a customer and the teller laughed and then changed the notes (that's our Leo).

Our actual tour commenced at 2pm with a substitute driver B. (our official guide would not be showing up until Tuesday morning). B. and the local Dublin guide, T. were lovely, exactly what you would expect of Irish gentlemen. Quick with a smile, joke and wit. From Viking Dublin to modern Dublin, with a guided tour of Trinity college and the Book of Kells. For me the most touching was the Potatoe Famine memorial. Tall, wretched figures depicting Ireland's starving people.

Tuesday dawned bright and clear we were off to Waterford via Glendalough Monastery. Glendalough was the monastic home of St. Kevin, there has been a church on the site since 800 A.D. The oldest relic was a 1200 year old sacristry table. The church of St. Kevin is one of three on the site and is a wonderfully perseved 1000 year old edifice. Today this is a national heritage site, quiet and serene surrounded by sheep farms and picturesque scenery. I finally learned the significance of the Celtic Cross. St. Patrick patron saint of Ireland was a canny man. The Irish were pagans before St. Patrick converted them. The pagan's religous symbol was the sun. So, Patrick modified the Christian cross to include a circle - marrying the pagan and Christian.

Late afternoon found us in Waterford with a walking tour of the city. Our local Waterford guide was J., 'best local Irish guide' winner for three years in a row did not dissapoint. Through commedy and an impromtu improvisation of the marriage of Waterford Irish Princess Eva to Anglo -Norman Lord 'Longbow' explained the 800 years of English oppression.

Probably the most surprising and study in Irish contrasts would be our 'real' guide D. showed up today. After our Dublin tour, I thanked B. for a lovely day and said good bye. He sort of chuckled and then said to the effect, "D. will be here tomorrow, he's a little wound", I found out how much in the morning. My only other experience with an Irish coach driver was the lovely John. He took a group of 20 strangers and in 5 days felt like a favorite uncle. Walking up to our bus this morning, we were greated with a rotating seating chart followed by a 30 minute safety/rules/regulations speech. Here was Ireland's only Type 'A' personality. As we left the highway in Wexford on our way to Glendalough, I was planning to organize a coup de tat with the other passengers when D. said, "You will see older buildings, but none so important as the cream colored one with the monsters in front." He honked the horn as we rumbled past his smiling children calling out to daddy on his bus. I looked in the mirror and saw a truly happy man, who with his speech was just trying to make sure at the end of the day the 24 tourists in his care would be happy and he could continue to support those three dear little faces.

Irish voices raised in song...and protest

Flight to Dublin uneventful for our little group of 10.(Joan and Lynne, Pam and David, Genny and Jerry as well as Toni and Leo). Checked in to the Mont Clare on Merrion Square and since the rooms weren*t ready, decided to check out some of the local museums and St. Stephen*s Green, Dublin*s famous park. On the way down Merrion Square saw multiple photographers, news vans, people with banners, signs and Irish flags(Ireland*s economy has been forefront of the news lately, and meetings were being held in the government buildings near our hotel about a possible bailout. Media and protesters were camped out to learn the latest news as it was happening).
When trying to combat jet lag, food always help. A trip to Bewley's Oriental cafe was in order. Bewley's was richly decorated for Christmas but it was the food that was the star; scones, lemon merriegue and baguette sandwiches were quickly devoured.

The National Galley was the only museum open on our trip back to the hotel, so we enjoyed an hour of Ireland and England's most famous paintings before heading up to our room for a nap(Pam and David) or across the street to the pub (Joan and co.).

Foley's Pub on Kildare Street just around the corner from the hotel is where a much more subdued group met for dinner. Just as we were tucking into our fish and chips the entire media contingent from around the corner came in. I visited with a couple fo the lads from the local paper and they told me they had been staking out the building since 2pm (it was 7pm) and they had to get in from the cold. TV, radio and print people kept pouring into the bar and it definitely increased Mobile phones were on each in the ready for the promised press conference to come. Media competitors strolled from table to table to review the situation. And as quickly as all the media folk rushed into the pub they were gone, the press conference was called for 8pm and they all went to cover the story.

It was time for the live traditional music, we chose Dublin and Foley's was to begin at 8pm Sunday evening. Foley's was chosen for its sign out front 'Live Music', but like the media, just after 8pm our little group began to file suffering from illness and jet lag until only 5 stalwart Irish music fans remained(myself, Leo, Toni, David and Genny). Brendan Shanahan(not the Red Wings hockey player) did not disappoint. He started his set at 8pm and did not stop until 9pm with traditional songs, 'Red is the Rose', 'Biddy Mulligan' and 'Galway Bay' as well as more comtemporary 'Alleluia' and 'Knocking on Heaven's Door'. Happy but weary, we left at 9pm after Brendan finished his first set. (David caputered a little bit of the performance on his phone, I'll include it here).

Heading back to the Mont Clare we carefully weaved ourselves through the protesters and media, both hunkered down for a long night. This morning on Ireland A.M it was announced a proposed bailout from both the UK and EU had been finalized. As the reporter narrated the story, the video showed our little street down to Foley's pub. We didn't just learn Irish history, today we were part of it!

My packing tips and tricks

In the good old days before September 11th each international traveler was allowed two checked bags up to 70 pounds each. Shoes, shopping, accessories, full size toliteries I had a 140 lovely pounds to satisfy all of my obsessions. Fast forward to 2010, 1 free 50 pound suitcase per international passenger(not for long I am sure). Since I don't have enough time for therapy (excepting the retail kind of course) I had to learn to make it all work with 60% less. (I found Magellan dot com on the web has great packing information. More recently, in the September Conde Nast Traveler, "The Unsophisticated Traveler" wrote extensively on the subject.)

Late fall 2010, I am off to Ireland for 12 days. I've been to the Emerald Isle at this time of year before. It's a mixed bag of mist, rain, sun and temp swings from 65 to 30 all in the same day.

Here's how I packed.
Checked bag: (5) pairs of jeans. (5) cashmere sweaters (very warm and very light), (3) Cuddle Duds long underware, (2) long sleeve t-shirts, (1) full length down coat, (1) microfibre vest, (1) pair walking shoes,(1) purse with a long handle worn across the body (1) pair short dress boots, pjs, underware. And since all jeans and sweaters get worn at least twice, most importantly, accesories, indoor/outdoor scarves, statement jewelery anything I can use to change an outfit's look. Total bag weight - 38 pounds

In order to get all this stuff to my final destination unwrinkled, I use the following pictured packing method. I unzip the down coat and lay in the microfibre vest, underware and pjs. I zip the coat and then make a toliterie 'wall' in the middle of the suit case. The heaviest items, shoes, books, etc go at the bottom to stablize the bag when standing on its wheels. Everything else goes at the top of the bag where I make an 'envelope' of the jeans and sweaters. Cashmere sweaters that easily wrinkle are packed in drycleaning bags.(See photo)


Carry on: (1) cashmere sweater, (1) Cuddle Dud,(1) pair fleece lined walking boots,and my foldable nylon black rain trench coat. (1) pair each, socks, underware, pjs.Adidas yoga pants and hoodie. Travel size blow dryer, medications and all electronics. And in my TSA approved zip lock bag: 3 oz Toothpaste, bare minimum of makeup, 3oz hair product, 3 oz hair spray and hand sanitizer. With the above I can survive for at least 24 hours at my desitination should my checked bag get lost. Total carryon weight - 20 pounds
My purse: Eye shades, slippers, pashima shawl tied around the handle, book, magazines.

I wear pair of jeans, cashmere cardigan and long sleeved t-shirt. Just before take off I head to the bathroom and change out of my sweater and jeans into my yoga pants and hoodie. Once seated, I remove my shoes, put on my slippers, untie my pashima to use as a wrap to get a few hours of sleep. Right before landing I return to the bathroom and put back on my cardigan and jeans to arrive looking fresh and neat for my first days activities at my destination.

And finally to satisfy my shopping urges? I bring my oldest pjs and underware which I throw out at the end of the trip, leaving room for all my new treasures

Most important packing tip of all? The $5.00 nylon neck pouch that stays around my neck for the entire trip. My cash, credit cards and the holy grail to all travelers my passport stays safely under my tucked in shirt. If you only take away one message from this post, protect your passport at all times. A US passport is worth thousands on the black market, losing it can put a real damper on your trip. Make sure you make copies of your passport and leave them with someone back home in case your passport goes missing,

Slainte Emerald Isle - November 2010

Click here to view these pictures larger

Vancouver

The floatplanes arrive and depart each morning from and to Victoria Island, the city bus of Vancouver. Into the and out of the fog and over the mountains to the wilderness, this is the magic of Vancouver. The city, the mountains, the gardens, the water, the people and the fusion cuisine all mesh to give the traveler a unique and unforgettable experience.

My eight-day visit to the City of Vancouver a few years ago was no different. While it was Winter and the vast gardens that weave through the city slept the city held more than enough charm to impress. My stay near at the Five Sails Conference Center for the eight-day International Curriculum Conference was impressive. However, it was not the honorary array of international conference speakers that won the day it was walking the streets, which held a new adventure around every corner. The first day I stopped in Scuzi (although I cannot find it on the list of breakfast stops now – but it may be newly named Trees Organic Coffee) for breakfast with a friend and we had one of the best breakfasts ever. The cozy café was just right and a pleasant break from the chill of the morning.

Next, a walk into The Five Sails Conference Center, overlooking the bay where the seaplanes come and go and the fog from time-to-time parts to reveal the majestic mountains. After the conference day, I walked with several friends into Yaletown, which is a kind of Yuppie area of the city – there is a mini-Cooper dealership. We visited a bustling pizza house. Plenty of white wine (local white wine is special – I brought back two bottles – yummy), good thin-crust pizza and conversation and we headed out again to the hotel.

Back to conference the next day and then after a longer walk to Grandville Island. This is the largest island community outside of Mackinac Island in North America. The community is home to many shops stocked full of art and local craft and heritage items - fascinating and brilliant around every corner.

After the next day’s conference, I ventured out into the Chinatown, which is larger than the Chinatown in San Francisco. This was a wonderful place and on the way back I ran into friends also up for an adventure in Gastown. Gastown was a cool part of the city as well. Gastown is a national historic site and was Vancouver's first downtown core and is named after "Gassy" Jack Deighton, a seaman, steamboat captain and barkeep who arrived in 1867 to open the area's first saloon. Gastown is a refreshing mix of old and new, down home and upscale - a place for tourists. However, it did not feel touristy but did feel like a safe and delightful part of the city to roam. Just as an aside, I love to visit coffee houses. We (my wife and I) travel a bit and I know what I like in a good coffee house and really like espresso and Latte. I wandered into a coffee house in Gastown and found one of the best lattes to this day I ever tasted. Fond memories, good food, wine, hospitality, and great shopping left me wanting to return and bring my family to lovely Vancouver. Now the sight of the current Winter Olympics I cannot help to feel the jealousy for the people lucky enough to attend.

Goodbye for ville maintenant juste – Goodbye for now fair city.

It's a small world after all

In the wake of the 6.1 aftershock in Haiti today following so closely on the original 7.0 magnitude quake - I thought I should take some time out from my usual frivolous little travel musings. I often tout the benefits of travel. In my heart the only one that matters is global citizenship.

I don't know when it became clear to me that in addtion to being a US citizen I was a member of this planet as well. I remember: wiping happy tears away as the Berlin Wall came down in 1989,in 2000 praying for the Russian sub sailors trapped under the North Sea (and later their families) as the agonizing hours passed and in late 2005 patting the shoulder of a Irish footballer fan as he sobbed over the loss of George Best, their' Belfast Boy' in the most awkward elevator ride I have ever had. Regardless, I realized so the world goes, go I.

As you go about your busy lives today, do what you can for the Haitian people. Domate your time or blood. Open your wallets and give a little cash. Or just pray, they need that, too. I can assure you, the world does the same thing for us.

The Magic Carpet Ride

Travel with its innumerable benefits(history, wine, food, culture, etc. etc. etc.) is not without its challenges. The weak US dollar, long lines at the airport, mounting security concerns and just finding the time to go, all are headaches of the modern day traveler. There is another way dear readers. You can live in a Tuscan villa, imbibe French cuisine and wine and traverse ancient Vatican catacombs, all from the comfort of your own home with a book. (Of course the argument could also be made for movies, that is another posting for another time).

I am sure most if not all of the mentioned books would make any must read list. But, like when Sarah Jessica Parker said NYC was the fifth 'lady' in Sex and the City,what, I am suggesting when reading (or re-reading) these books imagine the location as another character.

During my first read, Rome took a back seat to action in Dan Brown's Angel's and Demons. I recently re-read A&D and was delighted to realize, Brown allowed me to literally 'follow' the action. The author gives readers a bird’s eye view of many top Rome attractions. While inside Vatican City Brown’s Robert Langdon visits the famed Vatican archives, the Vatican grotto (burial place of over 100 popes) as well as the tomb of St. Peter himself. During his mad dash through the city Langdon visits Piazza del Poppolo, the fountains of Piazza Navonna, and the Pantheon. The novel’s dramatic climax is set at Castel San Angelo and St. Peter’s Basilica, providing a round trip tour of the Eternal City.

Located on the Tuscany / Umbria border, Cortona was best known for its fine Etruscan museum, prior to Frances Mayes' real estate purchase in the late '80s. By now, most people have heard of Frances Mayes' little Tuscan home renovation project in Under the Tuscan Sun(Mayes has written two more books based in Cortona Bella Tuscany and Everday in Tuscany). In Under, Mayes embraces Tuscan life through its design, culture and cuisine. As I entered Cortona through the Santa Maria Porta gate, I realized Saturday is market day in Cortona. House hold goods, linens, and the most beautiful produce, the Cortonese were laden down with their weekly purchases. As I wandered from stall to stall, Mayes' inspiration was apparent in every lush tomato, grape and olive.

Just before I left on vacation, I purchased Julia Child's memoir, My Life in France. With trains to catch, blogs to write and pasta to eat, I never even cracked the book's spine. One night as the water was running for my evening bath, I realized I didn't have anything to read ( A lifetime ritual for me,I am an indiscrimate bathtub reader. Gone With the Wind, Little Women, Dilbert and The National Enquirer, I have dropped all of them at one time or another in the tub). I dug through my carry - on and found My Life In France. It is a good thing I didn't start this wonderful story while I was in Italy or I would have had to change my travel plans to include la belle France. Julia and Paul Child met while serving with the OSS during World War II and married shortly thereafter. Paul continued government work after the war and was stationed in Paris. In her book Child recounts the early days of the couple's married life in France. Julia studied the French language at Berlitz and more importantly for the world, at le Cordon Bleu. In addition to classroom work, weekly visits to local farmers markets, butchers and cookware stores were part of Julia's education. It was through these visits she met the real Paris, its people and culture. The four years that followed went by in a happy blur full of entertaining, local travel and cuisine. In 1954 Paul was transferred to the USIS French Riviera office in Marseille. It was there, Julia learned to prepare many of her trademark fish dishes. The local fishwives hawking their wares always had time to talk wth the tall American lady. I think David and I would have been great friends with the Childs. David and Julia in the kitchen, while Paul and I reviewed his impressive photographs.

If you like your tastes run more to Mint Juleps than Pouilly Fuise, I highly recommend Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, John Berendt's love letter to the city of Savannah, GA disguised as a true crime drama.


Mexico? Like Water for Chocolate. The Canadian maritime provinces? Anne of Green Gables. The Alps? Heidi. The list can go on and on.


And, I'll let you in on a little secret, unlike the rest of us in coach - book travelers always fly first class.