(London)Derry
"D" turned the coach north from our Galway hotel on our way to Derry, Northern Ireland. With all the arrangement's, research and organization I hadn't really considered we were going to visit a place that during the 80s was nightly on the news for its car bombs and riots. "D" gave us a quick history lesson. How during the time of King Henry the 8th Ireland had been in effect stolen by the English from the Irish. And how during Elizabeth I reign, the northern Irish cheiftains had plotted with King Phillip of Spain to free Ireland and conquer England. History teaches us of Elizabeth's victory over Spain and the northern cheiftains. The chieftains fled northern Ireland and the English forcibly evicted Scottish, northern English and Welsh families from their homes and relocated them to Northern Ireland, the first Protestants in the Catholic country. Today as it was hundreds of years ago, Catholics far out weigh the Protestants- but unlike the the past few hundred years of rioting, car bombings, Sein Feinn and the IRA, the two sworn enemies live in delicate peace.
As we crossed the river Foyle into Northern Ireland, "D" explained before the peace the crossing would have meant hours of car searches by armed guards. "D" is my age. He commented before the peace he had been to the north three times. His children all under 10 had been three times already. As we rolled on to our walking tour of Derry, the roadside signs showed the kilometers to Londonderry. "D" watching us through the rear view mirror said he would let the guide explain the two names(we already knew that once the English left the Republic of Ireland, all city names that referenced the monarchy had been changed). Martin a ginger -haired charming man in his late 50s has lived in Derry his entire life. He is Roman Catholic and 41 years ago he married the Protestant police chief's daughter. He explained the city is both 'Derry' and 'Londonderry' depending on your religious views. We started our tour in the Bogside. The Bogside is as it always was a Catholic neighborhood. It was the site of the 1979 protests that ended in the death of 14 innocent men including six 17 years and under. The murals that decorate the gray apartment buildings depict the events of the 'Bloody Sunday' . For 38 years until this year the British government has insisted they fired into the protesters in self defense. Only in this past year did it finally admit responsibility and exonerate the 14 killed. To see this event and its aftermath through Martin's eyes was to feel the pain of generations. It is only now hundreds of years later, the people of Northern Ireland can enjoy the simple pleasures of walking, shopping and working wherever they want, freedoms and rights the rest of the western world has always had.
It was a somber tour group that checked into the Derry Everglades hotel. Dinner was just finishing when David and I could hear the songs of Mr. Sinatra in the lobby. I asked the waiter if that was a tape, he said it was live. Our group of 10 settled ourselves in front of the fireplace and in the hotel bar to enjoy Gerry Breslin, a local Derry singer and entertainer. In addition to old blue eyes, he sang Bobby Darrin, Glen Campbell and even Michael Jackson. He spoke of his available CD which contained an original song 'Jackie'. He further explained the song was about his cousin 'Jackie' whose dead body is depicted in the Bogside being carried away immediately after 'Bloody Sunday'. Gerry and Jackie were the exact same age - today he is enjoying a successful career in Derry, while his cousin has been dead since 1979.
The Giant's Causeway and Belfast
After the entertaining and moving evening of dance and mixed song, we went to bed with as new set of memories and with everyone in the group a bit closer. The next morning we embark for Belfast, the Giant's Causeway and Dublin.Finn MaCcool was a giant that once lived on the North Coast of Ireland and he had a great rivalry with another giant, Benandonner, across the sea in Scotland. The two giants would shout at each other across the water, and after a dispute about their respective fighting ability, Finn grabbed a rock and threw it towards Scotland, issuing a challenge to settle this claim. Benandonner responded with another rock, saying he could not swim. Finn MacCool then tore slabs of volcanic rock from the plateau around him to pave a causeway to let his rival cross.
Benandonner had to accept his challenge, came across the causeway and entered Finn MacCool's house to find the comparatively small (by giant standards) Finn dressed as a baby. Upon seeing the size of the "baby", and working out what size his father must be, Benandonner fled all the way back to Scotland, destroying the causeway as he crossed the sea to prevent . The remains are what we now know as the Giants Causeway.
The Causeway did not disappoint. The rock formations were surprisingly easy to navigate and the photos were spectacular. The views also from the countryside were spectacular as well. It is important to note the reunification of Ireland has already accomplished some important steps for travelers as even 10 months ago neither CIE nor any of the tour companies were able to freely explore the countryside areas in Northern Ireland in and around Belfast and the Causeway - we were quite lucky and impressed.
Belfast, from Irish: Béal Feirste meaning "mouth of the sandbars” is the capital of and the largest city in Northern Ireland and the second largest city in Ireland. The city suffered greatly during the period of disruption, conflict, and destruction called the Troubles, but latterly has undergone a sustained period of calm, free from the intense political violence of former years, and substantial economic and commercial growth. Belfast city centre has undergone considerable expansion and regeneration in recent years. The city while lovely and the visit emotionally moving was a bit intense. The rich and troubled political and religious history of the is still quite evident in the struggle between Catholic and Protestant Belfast and ultimately will decide the path of a unified Ireland. The people of Belfast still struggle at the precipice of conflict and peace. On a lighter note, for lunch we visited the Robinson Bar for a delicious lunch and draught. - David
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