As we enter the old breakfast room at Villa Casagrande and the sight of the kitchen class Danella and Paola greet each of us with open hearts and joy. It is like we are friends and I felt that way. Little bits of twisty bread lightly salted and Chanti red, a bit of small talk and we begin. From the outset of the class, it is the passion and the energy of the ladies that amazes me. They are everywhere in the kitchen and have a definite plan the mark of experienced cooks. Someone once told me that the difference between a chef and a cook even a really good cook is that the chef can take any atmosphere and transform it with food and their art. I believe it is safe to call Paola a chef in this regard. She has the basic skills to cook and the artistry to transform. One of these rare people who looks at the space and sees beyond.
The first course was many different types of crostini, a Tuscan and Italian staple. The Crostini Rossi, pomodoro (red sauce) and herbs, the Crostini Neri, chicken livers, red onion, parsley, garlic, salt, capers, anchovy fillets and butter, and Crostini Cannelini, cannelini beans and onions make my mouth water even as I write this blog. Next, we begin the three courses in one to be saute'd in a terra cotta pot. The meats are rabbit, minced beef, and chicken, which will cook in the pan with juices, herbs, and vegetables throughout the four hour cooking experience. The minced beef is standard fare but the other meats and their preparation require some explanation. First, the chicken begins with raw tenders pieces on a cutting board. On top, salt, sage, garlic, fresh mozarella, prosuitto. Then scramble two eggs with olive oil (of course) and salt and a little milk. Then place the eggs onto the chicken as well and sprinkle parmesean cheese. The roll the chiken around all the ingredients and tie with string and insert a sprig of rosemary on the outside under the tie. Then toss into the pan. Second, the rabbit is soaked in water for two hours.
The next course is the Ribollita, which is a kind of stew. This begins in a large stock pot with potatoes, beans, carrots, sevoy cabbage, beets, red onions, celery, zucchini, olive oil (of course), chili peppers (2), tomato pulp, parsley, leek, cannelini beans mashed. First, saute the onion and add all the other ingredients and then add pomodoro sauce for color then cook approximately three and one half hours. As I understand, Ribollita is a dish that is served all over Tuscany and can take many forms with many varying ingredients. In the end, the entire mixture is poured over day old baguette bread pieces and then the boiling continues until the bread is soft and mixes into the entire affair. The dish is a symbol in my mind of the underlying philosophy of what Tuscans live by in the daily lives, They use what is near and what they grow which means fresh. They make meals that are steeped in traditions and without frills. The flavor, the earth, the climate, the culture add the spices to make each dish burst with flavor.
In keeping with this philosophy, we make two pizzas as we have ingredients left from the cooking. Then we begin the cake. All during the night, stories of the village and of Italy show such love and passion for the culture and for gastronomy. The ladies cook like this all the time apparently and have been lucky to be a part of it twice now and I am looking for adoption so I can be a part of it all the time. the cake is made with chectnut flour, olive oil (of course), salt, rosemary (sauted with oil then added on top), walnuts, pine seeds, and raisins. The mixture is spread into a baking tin and the rosemary poured over top then baked for 18-20 minutes at 180 degrees.
Tuscans add fruit and fish into dishes as do cooks do all across the Mediterrean cultures. the experiences with Paola and Daniella will last a lifetime and will influence my future of cooking. They take such pride in the set up of the room and the ambience as well as the culture of the past of each dish. The ladies are wonderful people and we will treasure their invlovement in our lives. Life lessons and cooking lessons and a demonstration in the art of cooking is a valued experience.
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