Day 1 - Leave Detroit via Air France. Change planes CDG in Paris (only a one hour layover). Arrive in Florence at 3pm, pick up 7 person van and arrive at Villa Casagrande by 5pm. This time we have reserved apartment 'Type B' for our stay. That evening dinner at the villa ristorante - Bisteca alla Fiorentina for 5! www.villacasagrande.it
Day 2 - Our apartment has a full kitchen, so we'll get up early and hit the Co-op for Italian goodies. Salamis, cheeses, fresh bread, wine and olive oil. Later that day we're off to Greve en Chianti. We'll hit a couple of the local wineries - lunch at Castello di Verrazzano - www.verrazzano.com . Later that evening, a tasting of Villa Casagrande wines.
Day 3 - We're off to Umbria and Assisi! I am so excited to see the monastery where St. Francis lived. www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/assisi
Day 4 - Today is Cortona the land of Frances Mays and Under the Tuscan Sun. Today is market day. We'll load up on fresh produce and cheeses. www.thetuscansun.com
Day 5 - Ah Fierenze, Florence! We'll shop at Mercarto di Percarillo near the Ponte Vecchio. Gelato near the Uffizi and our first visit to Pitti Palace. www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/Pitti_palace.html
Day 6 - We'll stay in town today (Figline Val D'Arno) since this evening David, Joan and Andrea will take a cooking class at the Villa. They have previously studied with Paola and her associate Daniela in 2006. They learned biscotti, gnocchi, pork loin boiled in milk, crostini and a Sparschu-Phillips family favorite, ragu! Paola is already determining their new class menu. www.welcometuscany.it/tuscany/florence/around_florence_chianti_tuscany_italy/florence_valdarno_superiore_figline_valdarno.htm
Day 7 - Lucca Garrapa from Hills and Roads www.hillsandroads.com will pick us up at dawn to visit the Cinque Terre. In 2006 we toured the Umbrian jewel, Orvieto with Lucca. We're all looking forward to spending the day with Lucca - we know he'll make the Italian Rivieria that much more fun.
Day 8 - San Gimignano is close and it will be a nice easy ride from the villa. The medieval town is known for its towers. www.sangimignano.com
Day 9 - The serene walled city of Lucca or back to Florence? Both are favorites - we'll decide that morning.
Day 10 - We'll spend the day in lovely Figline Val D'Arno. Walking the city streets visiting the lovely cemetery and parish church. We'll dine at the villa tonight and bid our hosts sadly good bye.
Day 11 - Back to Detroit via Paris (hopefully there will be time to pick up some French wines at the Duty Free). We'll go to bed at 3am Figline time (9:00pm at home) to dream of Tuscany again.
Can't wait to tour the grounds of Villa Casagrande and mingle with our lovely hosts, ride the train to Florence and take in the Renaissance (using a validated ticket this time), and drive through the picturesque countryside of Tuscany. Impossibly fresh pasta, rich tasty wine, and great culture and people - who could go wrong.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Monday, March 23, 2009
Figline Val D'Arno qui veniamo - Figline on the Arno here we come!
In the end it was fairly easy to decide between Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast. Comparing apples to apples: the cost, hotel and activities were about the same. The double connection (Detroit to Frankfurt, Frankfurt to Milan, Milan to Naples) was the nail in coffin for the Amalfi Coast.So, we're returning to the small village of Figline Val D'Arno and the lovely Villa Casagrande http://www.hotelvillacasagrande.com/. (This is our second visit to the villa).
Figline is a bedroom community of Florence, 20 minutes equally by train or car. It consists of one main square with a church on one end and shops/restaurants/banks on the other three. Figline like many Tuscan towns still recognizes siesta. From 1:00pm to about 5:00pm most of the businesses shut down. The shops reopen around 5 and remain open to 9:00pm. This schedule works well for us, since we like to eat dinner at 7pm, we never have to make a reservation.
Staying outside of Florence has its definite benefits, no traffic to speak of, prices for food and lodging are usually 1/3 to 1/2 less and the opportunity to really connect with the residents of your host country are so much greater. A great example would be when we dine in Figline. After we are seated, the staff tends to gather in a corner whispering and nodding or pointing towards us. The person who is the most fluent in English (or drew the short straw I suspect) timidly approaches our table and always begins with "Pardon me, but I have not had English since high school....". Of course their English is 1000% better than our Italian, so we are always bemused/ashamed at how carefully and correctly they explain their written in Italian, menu.
I had another 'up close and personal' experience at the village laundry mat. It was completely self serve. I had put my clothes, soap and money in the machine, but no matter what I did it wouldn't start. Two elderly gnomelike gentlemen were in a corner folding a quilt. My Italian quit after Boun Giorgno and I had to pantomime my problem. They walked over to my machine, stroked their chins, discussed my problem and then calmly closed the washing machine door all the way.
On another morning, I went to the local bank to exchange some currency. As I wait in the line to visit the teller I notice many persons talking quietly to one another as is the case in a small town a the local business. A few of the people glance my way as if to say, "who is this - definitely not from our town"? As I stood there I so wished I knew someone. However, to my surprise just then Danella from the last night's cooking class walked into the bank. I exclaimed, "Bonjourno Danella" and she came over to me with a hug. The bank line quieted and the people were now stunned as to how does this guy know someone? One of the morals of this story is to get to know the people in the town whenever possible an take part in the everyday life of the local citizens. The teller and even the bank manager came over once I came to the window to work in completing my transaction. What a great feeling to have known someone and to have had such a pleasant experience in conducting everyday business.
Figline Val D'Arno here we come!
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
It's Not as Random as it Looks - Part II
Tuesday, March 17, 2009When discussing independent travel, I've sometimes been asked, "How did you get the idea to visit....?" Or "What made you want to go ......?" I am embarrassed to admit in the beginning it started as 'path of least resistance'. I had decided at the end of our Western Med/ Rome tour, I would like to test myself and try to plan a trip on my own. Based purely on no language barrier, I suggested London and England to the group for 2002. I booked the flights, hotels and excursions to Stonehenge and Bath. It's an awesome responsibility to make choices for a group - I was on pins and needles the entire time. We had a wonderful time. It gave me the courage to continue to act as 'Julie McCoy' for our annual vacations.Here is the inspiration for our other vacations.
2003 - Hawaii - George Bush had just invaded Iraq, we decided we wouldn't be very well received in the EU.
2004 - Rome and London- As much as I liked Hawaii, my heart was in Europe. I decided it was time to revisit my two favorite European cities on my own.
2005 - Ireland and Edinburgh - The Quiet Man and Going My Way. I bawl everytime Leo McCarey's 90 year old Irish mother toddles into screen, and Bing Crosby singing Irish Eyes, I'm a gonner. But, it's the scene out of the Quiet Man when Sean slams open the cottage door and the storm rages over Innispree that made me want to visit the Emerald Isle. Edinburgh? We were originally booked to visit London. The summer 2005 London subway bombings caused us to quickly punt and change our destination to Edinburgh.
2006 - Tuscany and Rome - World capital for foodies and wine aficionados.
2007 - Athens and Venice - We wanted to compare the Athens of our 2000 visit with the post 2004 Olympics Athens. Venice, pardon the pun, is an island onto itself. We hadn't been able to coordinate Venice with any other visit, so we added it to this trip.
2008 - Danube Cruise and Prague - We've vacationed the same week each year since 2004. No matter the country, Europe decks itself out for the holiday. In 2008, we decided we'd like to check out the beautiful Christmas markets of Bavaria and Bohemia.
Preparation for a trip and vacation is not as random as it looks either. First, some months out I make the pilgrimage to Barnes and Noble. It is at this Mecca of literature and such that I find the perfect tour book and map of the region. After a double espresso and some quality time in the cozy coffee house, I find the perfect book and map. In the electronic age, it only stands that cords must be organized and gadgets must be packed. A few weeks ahead of departure, I clear off all SD cards for cameras, collect new batteries and back-up batteries, collect movies, download Tivo'ed programs (we like to have recorded programs to view in the late evenings just in the background while we reflect on the day and plan for the new one ahead and it seems so much more relaxing then a steady diet of BBC World), find the power and sync cords for the PDA, download maps, test maps and establish push pins (I-Phone users reading this probably are laughing as they have the directional piece in their phones more easily), and stuff all the above into the "carry-on" luggage - my man purse.
Another aspect of the planning is the navigation piece of the vacation. Having been mildly interested all through my life in maps and directions I have to admit I did not often follow them and often found myself lost. I decided when we began to travel find ways of keeping directions and maps without looking so "touristy". To this end, enter the Dell PDA and handy Microsoft Pocket Streets software. The PDA has the illusion of a newer phone/planning device that so many people on European streets have their faces buried in as they walk. The Pocket Streets software allows me to download detailed maps of most European cities and plan our days one by one and turn by turn. However, the idea of turn by turn is much easier than actual turn by turn standing in the cities.
All in all the message in this entry, is that much planning goes into traveling. The truly experienced traveler makes it look easy and effortless. When you incorporate the many tips from experience the travel and memories become front and center and the details are less the star of the trip. With practice comes comfort and with comfort comes the ability to relax and embrace the moments.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
In the Beginning or Travel 101
I feel I need to preface this column with a quick economic discussion. Yes, David and I are planning on visiting Europe again this year. No, we don’t have a crystal ball that warns or informs us of what is coming down the pike for us or the country financially. What we do know is that after 4 years of post – graduate work, David Phillips has earned his doctorate. We think that auspicious accomplishment deserves some recognition, like visiting our favorite continent. One thing does differ this year from any other year, we do not live in a vacuum, we understand the reality of the global economy. The reality of the situation is, when planning this vacation budget needs to be at the top of our pre-planning requirements. It means we’ll not only need to stretch our travel dollars like never before, but we need to be conscious of the fact we are a desired part of the travel industry, potential customers. According to Rick Steves, online blogs and other resources, bargains await the intrepid traveler. So, if we are going to go ahead with this year’s vacation, we will need to gather as much information as possible prior to making any travel commitment.
The first time we went to Europe the one US Dollar was worth 8 French Francs, 3500 Greek Dracmas, 2000 Italian lire, and 7,000,000 Turkish pounds. Life was good, and all things travel if not cheap, were affordable. Then came along the Euro in 2004, the first year at par it lulled us into a false sense of security. As the Euro continued to surge against the dollar we changed our travel time from the peak season of summer to off peak November/December. During our 2007 trip to Athens and Venice at $1.57 US to 1 Euro (the Dollar had dropped $0.13 cents on the flight from Detroit to Amsterdam). With the economic downturn of 2008 we had to face facts our favorite travel destination was quickly becoming cost prohibitive.
Financial realities forefront in my mind, as soon as we returned from our 2008 vacation I hit the internet hard. I surfed the usual travel websites, read every travel article and scoured the forums at Trip Advisor dot com. My research indicated a cruise where our expenses could be locked in at the current US Dollars value would be our best bet. Here's where the wheels came off the apple cart. One of the Usual Suspects cannot join us for this years trip. So, now our usual group of 6 became an odd numbered 5, eliminating traditional tours or cruises.
Because I ignored my own advice, I was back at square one. I respect professionals. A dentist takes care of my teeth. Our local CPA does our taxes and usually I put my money, faith and time in the hands of a travel agent. A good travel agent, with their travel industry knowledge, agent exclusive computer software and contacts could have provided the same information in 5 minutes. Lesson learned, I've handed our travel planning over to D'Ann Schweihofer. D'Ann is the owner of St. Clair Travel and is an agent with 20 years experience.
After determining a budget, D'Ann helped us narrow our options down to: Paris, France, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast, Italy. Paris was quickly eliminated when we realized to stay in budget we would only be able to stay for 7 days as opposed to 9 for the other locations. So now the field is narrowed down to Figline Val D'Arno, Tuscany or Sorrento, Amalfi, Italy. Olives or Lemons? Wine or Limoncello? Hillside Tuscan towns or the seaside villages of the Amalfi coast.
One of the most important ways we found to stretch our traveler dollars is to begin with the type of trip. In our case, we quickly realized in Italy we could rent a car easily and stay in a reasonably priced villa or hotel. There are five of us and one car (or private guide) can work to combine funds. Wine is inexpensive and a product of of the region. Breakfast is included at both venues we can and make lunch the "big" meal of the day and have local wines, cheeses and meats for dinner. We can choose day trips in a fuel-efficient car and conserve funds. We also buy local crafts and products of the towns and villages we visit rather than choosing the touristy t-shirts and trinkets. These are only a few of the tips we learned over the last few years of travel to Europe.
We'll announce our final decision in the next post.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Prague - Praha
In Prague, we found a jewel of a city. On the way in to the city, remains of the occupation behind the iron curtain greet our bus. The day matches to architecture, Communist Grey and foreboding. Our tour group departs at the Marriott Prague. The hotel is jammed and guests are invited to meet in a half hour to go over the procedures for using public transportation. We stand outside and wait for our ride as my brilliant wife has booked us at the Hilton. Bart informs those of us staying at the Hilton that we do not need to worry about using pubic transportation as we will be within walking distance of city center. We are quite encouraged and it just keeps getting better as the bus driver states that he will take us to the hotel and no need to wait for the cab. He delivers us to the grand entrance of the Hilton Prague. The vast conference center and hotel is impressive and it keeps getting better as we walk up to the counter and check in without waiting and move quickly through the check in process and up to the room, which is remarkable ans spacious with a view of the sprawling city outside.Prague is an unexpected surprise in many ways. First, the food is wonderful and more varied than I thought it
would be. I had heard of veal schnitzel and goulash and they certainly did not disappoint but the soups and breads along with delicacies such as harlusky were wonderful. Second, Czech beer is know then world over for its complexity and flavor but all the varieties we drank - St Norbert exclusively found in the pub on the grounds of the Strahov Monastery and Pilsner Urquell were special standouts.Even to the non-beer drinkers I suggest and recommend all the beers to visitors. However, perhaps the most surprising part of our visit was the city, its architecture, people, and romance. Aside from Venice and perhaps even above Venice, Italy Prague was a romantic city. At every corner, another alley with new and hidden jewels. Entering every town square. new picturesque sights and grandeur. The city sneaks up on the traveler. Walking is so safe and hidden treasures for shopping and sights make the city a hidden romantic getaway.
I was so unprepared for Prague and the Czech Republic. My family is German and I've seen the Sound of Music more times than any person should admit, so I at least had some background for both. Up until we checked into the hotel, I kept thinking, I'm going to Czechoslovakia - no, I mean the Czech Republic (it's ok, it turns out. Georgi one of our tour guides summed it up - it was Bohemia for 1000 years, then Czechoslovakia and now Czech Republic, I say Bohemia). I could write hundreds of words about the lovely castle, great food and atmosphere, but it's the Czech people that to this day make me smile. My Spanish language background has always provided me a certain amount of pride/security when visiting the Romance language countries (Italy, Spain and France). I soon found out, the Czech language had letters I had never seen before, and certainly couldn't pronounce. And unlike, Greece where everyone under 40 speaks, English, most Czechs outside the tourist areas, do not. Ultimately, it didn't matter. A smile, a gesture, a glimpse, the Czech people made me feel like a most welcome guest.
I had arranged a private tour with Eva Travloka, a private guide I found on Trip Advisor dot com. As we wound our way down from Prague Castle and across the Charles Bridge, I experienced one of the most touching moments of our visit. Eva and I discovered were the same age, we were talking about our youth and college. That's when she spoke about growing up in a Communist country. She explained how her parents listened to Radio Free Europe at home, but they would always warn her not to tell anyone at school. People were arrested for less. She spoke about the Velvet Revolution, how in late 1989 she and her friends rattled their keys at the president's home telling him to leave it and their country. I was immediately proud and ashamed of my easy life here in the U.S. We looked at each other and the moment was broken when she laughed and said "Now we have a new ruler, money. Between the two of them, I'll take money".
Because we visited Prague in December, it will always mean Christmas to me. Prague Castle, The Imperial Cafe, the city streets and of course the Christmas markets were decorated in traditional Czech straw and dried fruits. We spent most of our time at the Old Town Square Market. David and Tim indulging in Mead. We all had grilled sausages on baguettes for lunch. I brought back the most elegantly decorated ginger bread cookies for our niece and nephew. An unexpected bonus, our last day in Prague, December 5, was Nickolas day. Young men dressed as St. Nicholas, his angels and the devils that travel with him, ask children if they've been good or naughty. We were swept along with the crowd, unnoticed as the Czechs celebrated their festival.
We were outsiders, but it was easy to feel the holiday spirit. The evening ended at the wonderful Cafe Imperial, restored to its Art Deco glory in 1999. We had dined earlier in the week at the Imperial. When we commented to our charming waitress how much we enjoyed our meal, she returned with the reservation book and said, "When will you return?". We laughed and said, "Thursday?", she replied "Thursday is no, good my day off". So, Friday after the St. Nicklaus festivities it was.
Monday, December 22, 2008
They gave us a fish instead of teaching us to fish
Our next blog will extoll the virtues of Prague. This blog is about practicing what you preach (and what happens when you ignore your own advice).
Usually David and I are independent travelers. We like making our own arrangements and plan our own adventures. However, with freedom comes personal responsibility. The responsibility to assure you, your family and your luggage will get from point A to point B and back to point A. Also, it means finding a place to eat and determining each days itinerary. A guided tour is a complete 180. You get yourself on a plane and from then on responsible and logical thought is not necessary. This is my long winded way of explaining the complete and utter panic I was feeling as the Gate 1 tour bus hurtled down the Autobahn from Regensburg to Prague. Normally David and I spend up to 6 months prior to a trip doing research. Travel guides, travel websites, other travel blogs and forums. We check them all and make albums of material for our trip. This trip we bought the 60 page 'Top 10 Prague' and barely cracked the spine. David's docorate program and our employers had kept us really hopping.
Immediately upon arriving in Austria we realized one of our mistakes, the language. David and I both have remedial Spanish backgrounds. Our combined 10 years of high school and college Spanish give us the necessary background for many Romance languages. In addition to Spanish we can also stumble around in Italian . And while we can't speak French, we can usually read enough to get around. It turns out my German language exposure was limited to Hogan's Hero re- runs and the Cabaret sound track (somewhere my Muehlhoff grandparents are spinning in their graves). And, unlike Greece where most folks under 40 speak fluent English, outside of Vienna not everyone in Austria and Germany did. However, since we were being lead around by the hand, it wasn't a big deal.
I had emailed myself a list of Czech words, so I could study them prior to arriving in Prague. As we all know now, our interet availability was very limited. I hadn't really even thought about it until Tuesday when boarding the bus. I walked up to our bus guide - Bart and asked if he knew any Czech. He said a little and would teach us a few words on the ride to Prague. Before that we stopped at a rest stop just over the German/Czech border. I walked into the store and got my first look at Czech words. Oh no! Each word had multiple consonants, few vowels and stange accents, too. With a sinking stomach I realized this language was closer to Russian than German.
As promised Bart tried to teach us all a few words before arriving in Prague. When all was said and done, I learned the word for beer - pivo. (Bart was right he only knew a few words). The funniest part was learning the word for Thank you. Bart taught us 'De koo i um" like requiem with a 'd'. Eager to try out my new word, I said it to the bellhop, who looked at me like I had a speech disorder. Michal was great and taught me 'dee koo yi' the correct pronounciation.
We made it through Prague with gestures and smiles. The Czech people were very kind and those who spoke English were happy to assist. I had engaged the services of a private guide prior to our arrival. In addition to English, Czech, German, Eva spoke Slovakian, Polish and Russian, too. Bart, Kate and Rolf from Gate 1 in addition to their native languages (Bart and Rolf Dutch and Kate Hungarian) spoke 4 to 5 additional.
David has been asking me for years, once his doctorate is complete - what do I want to do? Hearing my new aquaintances navigate many tongues has inspired me. I plan to improve my Spanish and Italian and eventually learn German as well.
So, long story long. no matter where you are headed learn a few words of the local language. You'll feel more confident and your country hosts will appreciate the effort.
Usually David and I are independent travelers. We like making our own arrangements and plan our own adventures. However, with freedom comes personal responsibility. The responsibility to assure you, your family and your luggage will get from point A to point B and back to point A. Also, it means finding a place to eat and determining each days itinerary. A guided tour is a complete 180. You get yourself on a plane and from then on responsible and logical thought is not necessary. This is my long winded way of explaining the complete and utter panic I was feeling as the Gate 1 tour bus hurtled down the Autobahn from Regensburg to Prague. Normally David and I spend up to 6 months prior to a trip doing research. Travel guides, travel websites, other travel blogs and forums. We check them all and make albums of material for our trip. This trip we bought the 60 page 'Top 10 Prague' and barely cracked the spine. David's docorate program and our employers had kept us really hopping.
Immediately upon arriving in Austria we realized one of our mistakes, the language. David and I both have remedial Spanish backgrounds. Our combined 10 years of high school and college Spanish give us the necessary background for many Romance languages. In addition to Spanish we can also stumble around in Italian . And while we can't speak French, we can usually read enough to get around. It turns out my German language exposure was limited to Hogan's Hero re- runs and the Cabaret sound track (somewhere my Muehlhoff grandparents are spinning in their graves). And, unlike Greece where most folks under 40 speak fluent English, outside of Vienna not everyone in Austria and Germany did. However, since we were being lead around by the hand, it wasn't a big deal.
I had emailed myself a list of Czech words, so I could study them prior to arriving in Prague. As we all know now, our interet availability was very limited. I hadn't really even thought about it until Tuesday when boarding the bus. I walked up to our bus guide - Bart and asked if he knew any Czech. He said a little and would teach us a few words on the ride to Prague. Before that we stopped at a rest stop just over the German/Czech border. I walked into the store and got my first look at Czech words. Oh no! Each word had multiple consonants, few vowels and stange accents, too. With a sinking stomach I realized this language was closer to Russian than German.
As promised Bart tried to teach us all a few words before arriving in Prague. When all was said and done, I learned the word for beer - pivo. (Bart was right he only knew a few words). The funniest part was learning the word for Thank you. Bart taught us 'De koo i um" like requiem with a 'd'. Eager to try out my new word, I said it to the bellhop, who looked at me like I had a speech disorder. Michal was great and taught me 'dee koo yi' the correct pronounciation.
We made it through Prague with gestures and smiles. The Czech people were very kind and those who spoke English were happy to assist. I had engaged the services of a private guide prior to our arrival. In addition to English, Czech, German, Eva spoke Slovakian, Polish and Russian, too. Bart, Kate and Rolf from Gate 1 in addition to their native languages (Bart and Rolf Dutch and Kate Hungarian) spoke 4 to 5 additional.
David has been asking me for years, once his doctorate is complete - what do I want to do? Hearing my new aquaintances navigate many tongues has inspired me. I plan to improve my Spanish and Italian and eventually learn German as well.
So, long story long. no matter where you are headed learn a few words of the local language. You'll feel more confident and your country hosts will appreciate the effort.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Vienna to Regensburg - Nov. 27 - Dec 1
Vienna, Austria
Memories of two gentlemen who spoke at the top of their lungs for five hours straight, several crying babies as well as three and a half hours in the Frankfurt airport quickly faded as the sun and Vienna broke through the clouds. Once on the ground all went smoothly and by 15:30, we were enjoying a snack in the Panorama Lounge of the Amadeus Royal. After unpacking, we were served a traditional Thanksgiving meal.
By 20:15, we were on a bus headed out to our first Christmas Market the Rauthaus Christkindl Market at the Viennese city hall. Coming around the corner and seeing all the brightly decorated stalls was very exciting. Local Viennese mixed with tourists walking their dogs and sipping the local Gluewhein. I quickly got in the retail therapy swing and began checking out the wares. I was disappointed to see 90% of the offerings were from China. There were many stalls featuring honey and beeswax that were clearly locally made, and the food stalls were unbelievable with amazingly decorated cookies and candies. By 22:00, we were delivered back to the ship. Most of the group went straight to bed, but David and I wandered down to the lounge and watched the lights twinkle off the Danube.
On Friday, we uncovered the surface of the beautiful jewel of Vienna city center. The Gate 1 bus whisked the group to the 1st district, which is city center. We quickly realized that simply driving by stately building after stately building would not do the city justice and that we should consider Vienna a future destination. That aside and possibly the topic of a future entry on another vacation we forged ahead on the guided bus tour. We met Heide, our guide for both the bus and walking portions of the tour. She gave us an overview of the role of the Babensberg and Habsburg families in the rich Viennese history. The Babensberg family is responsible for the fascinating county Melk Abbey – the subject of Saturday’s entry. The Babensberg family rule for approximately 400 years until their extinction in 1246. Vienna briefly came under the rule of King Ottokar II of Bohemia until King Rudolf I expelled him in 1278. From that time, the city was a possession of the Habsburg family. They ruled Austria from approximately 1278 through the early 1900s, until WWI and the murder of Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand. After WWI and the breakup of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Vienna became the capital of a small Austrian republic. Between 1938 and 1945, it was a provincial capital in the German Reich. After WWII, Vienna reemerged as the capital of a neutral Austrian republic and became one of the world headquarters of the United Nations in 1979.
Heide was a wonderful and knowledgeable guide and apparently, somewhat of a celebrity as she stated she had a past as a champion skier and ski instructor. She was from the southern part of Austria, specifically Corinth. Back to the tour, Heide guided us through the city center, the Innerstadt, and its main shopping street Grabin. Vienna holds some 1.6 million residents and many actually reside inside one of the city’s 23 districts. This day, the city bustled with people even as the wind and cold were brisk. Just outside the wonderful landmark, church of St. Stephens Cathedral Heide bid the group a fond adieu and pointed us to the meeting spot for the return buses back to the ship.
We asked Heide where she would recommend having a coffee and warming drink. She stated that the Wienwurm café was a nice spot and we entered a modern and quaint café. To our surprise, Heide joined us a few minutes later. Now just the five of us got to know Heide with a warming espresso and hot chocolate. After a pleasant talk, we said goodbye to Heide and ventured back to the cold and meeting point in front of the Cathedral where Rolf from Gate 1 led the entire “mellow” yellow group back the bus for the return trip to the ship.
Friday after lunch found most of the group heading off to the Habsburg summer residence, Schonbrunn Palace. David and stayed back to prepare for our Viennese Waltz lesson at the Elmayer Dance School. Situated in the former horse stables of the Pallavinici Palace and next to the stables of The Spanish Riding School, the Elmayer has taught Vienna’s youth since 1919. With our appointment at 18:00, we headed to the Hofsburg for a quick visit. Although the door said the palace was open until 18:00, we found it locked. We wandered into the palace’s café and for the second time that partook of that Austrian favorite – coffee. Coffee and coffee houses have been important to Austria and especially Vienna since the Turkish invasion of 1683. The Turks have been long gone, but the practice of buying one coffee and lingering for four or five hours still goes on today.
We left the café and headed to the school. We arrived a few minutes early, but our instructor, Marion was ready and waiting for us. Marion was in her twenties. She had studied dance at the Elmayer for three years and had been an instructor for five. Marion in a former life was probably the sweetest, gentlest drill sergeant in the Habsburg army. “Now we are starting with the right and then the left and now the turn and the turn and the turn”. Within one hour, she taught us the basic Viennese Waltz step as well as quarter and half turns. Viennese Waltz is completely different from the waltz we have previously studied. Marion instructed David and me to, “Stand together as tightly so that a piece of paper could not slide out between your bodies”. Also new for us was the practice of our feet fitting between each other’s feet while dancing that meant when David came forward he placed his foot on the floor between my legs and when I went backward the same thing. The hour went very quickly and it was time to go. David asked and we were granted permission to watch one of the group classes. About 100 teenagers from the ages of 14 – 17 were learning ‘Boogie’ in preparation for the ball season, already in full swing in Vienna. Take a look at the video; it’s really thrilling to watch.
The evening ended with a concert at Vienna’s famous Kursalon Concert Hall for music by Mozart, Strauss and Schubert. In addition to the orchestra, a male and a female opera singers performed several opera pieces. A ballet couple danced both ballet and Viennese Waltz as well. It was a great way to say goodbye this wonderful city, with a nod to its loves, coffee, music and dance.
The Wachau Valley and Melk, Austria
A deep shudder of the ship roused me from a deep sleep; the clock said 4:30a.m. David seated on the window seat looking out. I groggily wondered what was going on. We knew the boat would embark from Vienna at 3:00am and had missed the engines firing up. However, the boat’s entrance into the first lock on the Danube woke us both. We watched the water level rise and the boat continue down river.
All of Europe’s great cities are located on riverbanks. I
thought about the cities and the rivers I have visited, London and the Thames, Edinburgh and the Forth of Firth, Dublin and the Liffey, Rome and the Tiber as well as Florence and the Arno. Rivers were necessary for not only the fresh water they provided but security and trade as well. Sometimes it is the river’s reputation and not the river itself that is mighty. The Nile in Cairo is slightly wider and a little deeper than a small stream. I was stunned to learn Israel’s Jordan was only a small creek as it wound through Jerusalem.
The Danube stretches from Amsterdam, Netherlands to the Black Sea. Hungary, Austria and Germany to this day depend on the river for commerce, fresh water and tourism. Just after breakfast, the boat arrived in Austria’s Wachau Valley, stretch of the Danube from Krems to Melk. Breathtaking vineyards carved into the valley walls led gently to the village of Durnstein. Durnstein is where Richard the Lionhearted was held prisoner on his way back from the crusades and the crown gemstone of the Wachau Valley and cruising through it was like drinking a rare wine.
Later in the afternoon, we dock just down river from Melk Abbey. To our luck, weather broke and sunshine revealed a quiet and surprising opportunity to be out on the lookout deck of the Amadeus. On to the buses, this led us on a five-minute ride to the base of the Abbey grounds.
The Melk Abbey is a working Benedictine Abbey once accommodating many monks and today houses 30 or so live-in residents. The Abbey dates back to 1014 when it was a convent. The Babensbergs’ chose Melk as their residence and place of burial. However, Melk’s lasting fame was when in 1700 Berthold Dietmayr was elected abbot. He authorized the construction on a new abbey to replace fire damage long ago. Today, the Melk Abbey stands as one of the outstanding baroque creations. With over 400 rooms and over 1100 windows, the Abbey and grounds is spectacular and largely depends on the contribution and visitation of thousands of tourists yearly.
The guides explained to the group “right is right and left is wrong” to return to the ship. To understand this, after the tour we walked down always bearing to the right to the town of Melk in the shadows of the protecting Abbey. The town is really more of a village and a few main streets with less than 50 retail stores and an even smaller Christmas market. The small nature of the town did not quell its picturesque impact. A short ride back to the ship and we look forward to another dinner and travel scheme for tomorrow in fabled Salzburg.
Salzburg, Austria
We began our adventure at the Mirabelle gardens, which was the palace that Prince Archbishop Wolf Von Dietrich built. Up until the early 20th century, Salzburg was an independent city-state ruled by the Prince Archbishops (a combination of Royalty and clergy) and the most notable of these was Von Dietrich. His mother was a Medici from Florence and his father was from Salzburg. The garden centerpiece is the fountain. The palace edification and grounds represents the only Italian palace/garden outside of Italy. Surrounding the fountain are four marble statues from the quarry in Salzburg. The four statues represent the four elements fire, water, air, and earth. Most Americans know the centerpiece fountain and surrounding gardens from the movie classic Sound of Music, which depicts Julie Andrews running through the gardens singing the song “Do Re Me”.
From the Palace and the new town, we walk with our guide Alexander to cross the River Salz to the old town. An interesting point about “old” town and “new” town was that the Palace was built in the new town for the Prince’s mistress. Although he conceived 15 children with this woman, he could not allow the mistress to live in the city. He instead built the Mirabelle across the river Salz in the “new” town. Weaving through the old-world streets of the old town, we quickly understand the charm and allure of Salzburg as a holiday destination for Europeans and a tourist destination for the rest of the world. From the best Christmas markets, we have seen yet to an alley after alley of shopping and scenic surprises, the old town offers something for every traveler and romance for all who enter. Sparkling holiday lights around every turn, the bustling sounds of crowded city streets, and scents of wooden smokers and holiday cheer offer a robust holiday and sensory experience.
Salzburg was an optional tour through Gate 1 (a quick aside, I have never met so many pleased prior customers of a tour company. All said the quality and value of their many Gate 1 experiences made them return). After group discussion, we all decided we could not imagine visiting Austria without seeing Salzburg. As David has mentioned, Salzburg did not disappoint. My personal favorites, the Christmas market where we crossed paths with many locals dressed in traditional Austrian garb, lunch at St. Peter’s restaurant (the oldest in Europe – 803AD) and the cemetery at St. Peter’s. The fact I loved a cemetery will be no shock to those who know me. What set St. Peter’s apart from the rest was the feeling it was a living cemetery, all the graves had fresh greens and were decorated for Christmas, no matter how old the tombstone.
After Salzburg, we traveled into the approaching dusk and into a new country – Germany. Until early 2000, travelers passing from Austria and to Germany needed to follow traditional border and customs procedures. Under the EU agreement, travelers benefit from the agreement and we were no exception. We waived with little slow down at the vacant border station to enter Germany. I should however comment on the lovely Austrian countryside on the way to the border crossing. The farmland and spattering of snow-covered grounds were brilliant and a real treat. Bus coma set in and we awoke to the sounds of Rolf (the multi-talented Gate 1 guide) informing us that the buses just moved onto the ramp of the German Audubon. Although cars and traffic did not appear to be moving at the fabled speeds of the famous motorway the mystic was no less magic. We arrived in Passau, Germany and back to the ship an hour or so after nightfall to warm towels and tea at the door.
Regensburg, Germany
Cruising overnight into Germany, we arrived at Regensburg, Germany in the early morning. The night once again brought the ship through a series of locks. However, as usual the ship navigated flawlessly. Regensburg dates back to the Stone ages as a settlement. The Celtic name Radasbona was the oldest name given to the settlement near the present city. The history of Regensburg can be condensed into the distinct historical periods. First, the Romans wished to set a city fortress on their eastern border to protect against barbarian invaders so they migrated to the area and settled the armament around 90 AD. This settlement remained in effect until 843 AD when Regensburg became the seat of the eastern Frankish ruler, Louis II the German. From about 530 until the first half of the 13th century it was the capital of Bavaria. In 1135-46, a bridge across the Danube, the Steinerne Brucke, was built. This stone bridge opened international trade routes between Northern Europe and Venice entering Regensburg into its second important period as a rich and powerful city in Bavaria. It became the cultural center of southern Germany and was celebrated for its gold work and fabrics. In 1245, Regensburg became a Free Imperial City and was a trade center before the shifting of trade routes in the late middle ages. This ushered in the history of Regensburg to present day. In 1803, the city lost its status as a free city. It was handed over to the Archbishop of Mainz and Arch chancellor of the Holy Roman Empire Carl von Dalberg. Regensburg became a new state within the Empire. In 1743, German armed forces bombed their own bridge in an attempt to slow the advancing allied troops. However, the allied troops advanced from another direction and the bridge, city was spared further damage, and bombing, which was the unfortunate fate of many European cities during WWII.
After our short morning tour ended and we began the rest of our Regensburg visit, we hoofed it to the nearest internet café since David needed to check into his Ph.D. program. Once he had checked in, I logged on and let my brother know we were all fine and to explain our internet availability was nil until then (side note, we are now in Prague and our anticipated internet usage has not exactly panned out – we will probably on post twice before leaving to return home). Lunch followed our internet jaunt at the oldest sausage kitchen in Bavaria 1243. Tim, Andrea, my mom and I ordered six sausages – David, eight. I ended up eating 4.25 and David 10.75. We walked off lunch by a visit to Regensburg’s three Christmas markets, the local department / grocery store for local mustards, wine and schnapps.
We ended our last night on the riverboat with the Captain’s dinner and a late night final visit to the lounge. We said goodbye to our favorite Amadeus Royal staff members, Beatrix, Adrienn, Tamas, Zoltan, Pieter and Miklos. Our Gate One tour director, Rolf was extremely professional, interesting and an all around great guy. David lost his camera case (and full photo card, unfortunately) somewhere Friday night. When David mentioned to Rolf that he might have left it at the Elmayer dance studio, Rolf offered to call the studio, find out if they had the case, pick it up and ship it back to us. He checked with the studio a couple of times and it was finally determined the case was not there. As we disembarked today, he apologized that he could not find our case. Definitely beyond our expectations.
Today, Tuesday, December 02, 2008, we arrived at Prague Hilton after an uneventful bus ride from Regensburg, Germany to the Czech Republic. Stay tuned for Prague adventures in our next posting.
Memories of two gentlemen who spoke at the top of their lungs for five hours straight, several crying babies as well as three and a half hours in the Frankfurt airport quickly faded as the sun and Vienna broke through the clouds. Once on the ground all went smoothly and by 15:30, we were enjoying a snack in the Panorama Lounge of the Amadeus Royal. After unpacking, we were served a traditional Thanksgiving meal.
By 20:15, we were on a bus headed out to our first Christmas Market the Rauthaus Christkindl Market at the Viennese city hall. Coming around the corner and seeing all the brightly decorated stalls was very exciting. Local Viennese mixed with tourists walking their dogs and sipping the local Gluewhein. I quickly got in the retail therapy swing and began checking out the wares. I was disappointed to see 90% of the offerings were from China. There were many stalls featuring honey and beeswax that were clearly locally made, and the food stalls were unbelievable with amazingly decorated cookies and candies. By 22:00, we were delivered back to the ship. Most of the group went straight to bed, but David and I wandered down to the lounge and watched the lights twinkle off the Danube.
On Friday, we uncovered the surface of the beautiful jewel of Vienna city center. The Gate 1 bus whisked the group to the 1st district, which is city center. We quickly realized that simply driving by stately building after stately building would not do the city justice and that we should consider Vienna a future destination. That aside and possibly the topic of a future entry on another vacation we forged ahead on the guided bus tour. We met Heide, our guide for both the bus and walking portions of the tour. She gave us an overview of the role of the Babensberg and Habsburg families in the rich Viennese history. The Babensberg family is responsible for the fascinating county Melk Abbey – the subject of Saturday’s entry. The Babensberg family rule for approximately 400 years until their extinction in 1246. Vienna briefly came under the rule of King Ottokar II of Bohemia until King Rudolf I expelled him in 1278. From that time, the city was a possession of the Habsburg family. They ruled Austria from approximately 1278 through the early 1900s, until WWI and the murder of Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand. After WWI and the breakup of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Vienna became the capital of a small Austrian republic. Between 1938 and 1945, it was a provincial capital in the German Reich. After WWII, Vienna reemerged as the capital of a neutral Austrian republic and became one of the world headquarters of the United Nations in 1979.
Heide was a wonderful and knowledgeable guide and apparently, somewhat of a celebrity as she stated she had a past as a champion skier and ski instructor. She was from the southern part of Austria, specifically Corinth. Back to the tour, Heide guided us through the city center, the Innerstadt, and its main shopping street Grabin. Vienna holds some 1.6 million residents and many actually reside inside one of the city’s 23 districts. This day, the city bustled with people even as the wind and cold were brisk. Just outside the wonderful landmark, church of St. Stephens Cathedral Heide bid the group a fond adieu and pointed us to the meeting spot for the return buses back to the ship.
We asked Heide where she would recommend having a coffee and warming drink. She stated that the Wienwurm café was a nice spot and we entered a modern and quaint café. To our surprise, Heide joined us a few minutes later. Now just the five of us got to know Heide with a warming espresso and hot chocolate. After a pleasant talk, we said goodbye to Heide and ventured back to the cold and meeting point in front of the Cathedral where Rolf from Gate 1 led the entire “mellow” yellow group back the bus for the return trip to the ship.
Friday after lunch found most of the group heading off to the Habsburg summer residence, Schonbrunn Palace. David and stayed back to prepare for our Viennese Waltz lesson at the Elmayer Dance School. Situated in the former horse stables of the Pallavinici Palace and next to the stables of The Spanish Riding School, the Elmayer has taught Vienna’s youth since 1919. With our appointment at 18:00, we headed to the Hofsburg for a quick visit. Although the door said the palace was open until 18:00, we found it locked. We wandered into the palace’s café and for the second time that partook of that Austrian favorite – coffee. Coffee and coffee houses have been important to Austria and especially Vienna since the Turkish invasion of 1683. The Turks have been long gone, but the practice of buying one coffee and lingering for four or five hours still goes on today.
We left the café and headed to the school. We arrived a few minutes early, but our instructor, Marion was ready and waiting for us. Marion was in her twenties. She had studied dance at the Elmayer for three years and had been an instructor for five. Marion in a former life was probably the sweetest, gentlest drill sergeant in the Habsburg army. “Now we are starting with the right and then the left and now the turn and the turn and the turn”. Within one hour, she taught us the basic Viennese Waltz step as well as quarter and half turns. Viennese Waltz is completely different from the waltz we have previously studied. Marion instructed David and me to, “Stand together as tightly so that a piece of paper could not slide out between your bodies”. Also new for us was the practice of our feet fitting between each other’s feet while dancing that meant when David came forward he placed his foot on the floor between my legs and when I went backward the same thing. The hour went very quickly and it was time to go. David asked and we were granted permission to watch one of the group classes. About 100 teenagers from the ages of 14 – 17 were learning ‘Boogie’ in preparation for the ball season, already in full swing in Vienna. Take a look at the video; it’s really thrilling to watch.
The evening ended with a concert at Vienna’s famous Kursalon Concert Hall for music by Mozart, Strauss and Schubert. In addition to the orchestra, a male and a female opera singers performed several opera pieces. A ballet couple danced both ballet and Viennese Waltz as well. It was a great way to say goodbye this wonderful city, with a nod to its loves, coffee, music and dance.
The Wachau Valley and Melk, Austria
A deep shudder of the ship roused me from a deep sleep; the clock said 4:30a.m. David seated on the window seat looking out. I groggily wondered what was going on. We knew the boat would embark from Vienna at 3:00am and had missed the engines firing up. However, the boat’s entrance into the first lock on the Danube woke us both. We watched the water level rise and the boat continue down river.
All of Europe’s great cities are located on riverbanks. I
thought about the cities and the rivers I have visited, London and the Thames, Edinburgh and the Forth of Firth, Dublin and the Liffey, Rome and the Tiber as well as Florence and the Arno. Rivers were necessary for not only the fresh water they provided but security and trade as well. Sometimes it is the river’s reputation and not the river itself that is mighty. The Nile in Cairo is slightly wider and a little deeper than a small stream. I was stunned to learn Israel’s Jordan was only a small creek as it wound through Jerusalem.The Danube stretches from Amsterdam, Netherlands to the Black Sea. Hungary, Austria and Germany to this day depend on the river for commerce, fresh water and tourism. Just after breakfast, the boat arrived in Austria’s Wachau Valley, stretch of the Danube from Krems to Melk. Breathtaking vineyards carved into the valley walls led gently to the village of Durnstein. Durnstein is where Richard the Lionhearted was held prisoner on his way back from the crusades and the crown gemstone of the Wachau Valley and cruising through it was like drinking a rare wine.
Later in the afternoon, we dock just down river from Melk Abbey. To our luck, weather broke and sunshine revealed a quiet and surprising opportunity to be out on the lookout deck of the Amadeus. On to the buses, this led us on a five-minute ride to the base of the Abbey grounds.
The Melk Abbey is a working Benedictine Abbey once accommodating many monks and today houses 30 or so live-in residents. The Abbey dates back to 1014 when it was a convent. The Babensbergs’ chose Melk as their residence and place of burial. However, Melk’s lasting fame was when in 1700 Berthold Dietmayr was elected abbot. He authorized the construction on a new abbey to replace fire damage long ago. Today, the Melk Abbey stands as one of the outstanding baroque creations. With over 400 rooms and over 1100 windows, the Abbey and grounds is spectacular and largely depends on the contribution and visitation of thousands of tourists yearly.
The guides explained to the group “right is right and left is wrong” to return to the ship. To understand this, after the tour we walked down always bearing to the right to the town of Melk in the shadows of the protecting Abbey. The town is really more of a village and a few main streets with less than 50 retail stores and an even smaller Christmas market. The small nature of the town did not quell its picturesque impact. A short ride back to the ship and we look forward to another dinner and travel scheme for tomorrow in fabled Salzburg.
Salzburg, Austria
We began our adventure at the Mirabelle gardens, which was the palace that Prince Archbishop Wolf Von Dietrich built. Up until the early 20th century, Salzburg was an independent city-state ruled by the Prince Archbishops (a combination of Royalty and clergy) and the most notable of these was Von Dietrich. His mother was a Medici from Florence and his father was from Salzburg. The garden centerpiece is the fountain. The palace edification and grounds represents the only Italian palace/garden outside of Italy. Surrounding the fountain are four marble statues from the quarry in Salzburg. The four statues represent the four elements fire, water, air, and earth. Most Americans know the centerpiece fountain and surrounding gardens from the movie classic Sound of Music, which depicts Julie Andrews running through the gardens singing the song “Do Re Me”.
From the Palace and the new town, we walk with our guide Alexander to cross the River Salz to the old town. An interesting point about “old” town and “new” town was that the Palace was built in the new town for the Prince’s mistress. Although he conceived 15 children with this woman, he could not allow the mistress to live in the city. He instead built the Mirabelle across the river Salz in the “new” town. Weaving through the old-world streets of the old town, we quickly understand the charm and allure of Salzburg as a holiday destination for Europeans and a tourist destination for the rest of the world. From the best Christmas markets, we have seen yet to an alley after alley of shopping and scenic surprises, the old town offers something for every traveler and romance for all who enter. Sparkling holiday lights around every turn, the bustling sounds of crowded city streets, and scents of wooden smokers and holiday cheer offer a robust holiday and sensory experience.
Salzburg was an optional tour through Gate 1 (a quick aside, I have never met so many pleased prior customers of a tour company. All said the quality and value of their many Gate 1 experiences made them return). After group discussion, we all decided we could not imagine visiting Austria without seeing Salzburg. As David has mentioned, Salzburg did not disappoint. My personal favorites, the Christmas market where we crossed paths with many locals dressed in traditional Austrian garb, lunch at St. Peter’s restaurant (the oldest in Europe – 803AD) and the cemetery at St. Peter’s. The fact I loved a cemetery will be no shock to those who know me. What set St. Peter’s apart from the rest was the feeling it was a living cemetery, all the graves had fresh greens and were decorated for Christmas, no matter how old the tombstone.
After Salzburg, we traveled into the approaching dusk and into a new country – Germany. Until early 2000, travelers passing from Austria and to Germany needed to follow traditional border and customs procedures. Under the EU agreement, travelers benefit from the agreement and we were no exception. We waived with little slow down at the vacant border station to enter Germany. I should however comment on the lovely Austrian countryside on the way to the border crossing. The farmland and spattering of snow-covered grounds were brilliant and a real treat. Bus coma set in and we awoke to the sounds of Rolf (the multi-talented Gate 1 guide) informing us that the buses just moved onto the ramp of the German Audubon. Although cars and traffic did not appear to be moving at the fabled speeds of the famous motorway the mystic was no less magic. We arrived in Passau, Germany and back to the ship an hour or so after nightfall to warm towels and tea at the door.
Regensburg, Germany
Cruising overnight into Germany, we arrived at Regensburg, Germany in the early morning. The night once again brought the ship through a series of locks. However, as usual the ship navigated flawlessly. Regensburg dates back to the Stone ages as a settlement. The Celtic name Radasbona was the oldest name given to the settlement near the present city. The history of Regensburg can be condensed into the distinct historical periods. First, the Romans wished to set a city fortress on their eastern border to protect against barbarian invaders so they migrated to the area and settled the armament around 90 AD. This settlement remained in effect until 843 AD when Regensburg became the seat of the eastern Frankish ruler, Louis II the German. From about 530 until the first half of the 13th century it was the capital of Bavaria. In 1135-46, a bridge across the Danube, the Steinerne Brucke, was built. This stone bridge opened international trade routes between Northern Europe and Venice entering Regensburg into its second important period as a rich and powerful city in Bavaria. It became the cultural center of southern Germany and was celebrated for its gold work and fabrics. In 1245, Regensburg became a Free Imperial City and was a trade center before the shifting of trade routes in the late middle ages. This ushered in the history of Regensburg to present day. In 1803, the city lost its status as a free city. It was handed over to the Archbishop of Mainz and Arch chancellor of the Holy Roman Empire Carl von Dalberg. Regensburg became a new state within the Empire. In 1743, German armed forces bombed their own bridge in an attempt to slow the advancing allied troops. However, the allied troops advanced from another direction and the bridge, city was spared further damage, and bombing, which was the unfortunate fate of many European cities during WWII.
After our short morning tour ended and we began the rest of our Regensburg visit, we hoofed it to the nearest internet café since David needed to check into his Ph.D. program. Once he had checked in, I logged on and let my brother know we were all fine and to explain our internet availability was nil until then (side note, we are now in Prague and our anticipated internet usage has not exactly panned out – we will probably on post twice before leaving to return home). Lunch followed our internet jaunt at the oldest sausage kitchen in Bavaria 1243. Tim, Andrea, my mom and I ordered six sausages – David, eight. I ended up eating 4.25 and David 10.75. We walked off lunch by a visit to Regensburg’s three Christmas markets, the local department / grocery store for local mustards, wine and schnapps.
We ended our last night on the riverboat with the Captain’s dinner and a late night final visit to the lounge. We said goodbye to our favorite Amadeus Royal staff members, Beatrix, Adrienn, Tamas, Zoltan, Pieter and Miklos. Our Gate One tour director, Rolf was extremely professional, interesting and an all around great guy. David lost his camera case (and full photo card, unfortunately) somewhere Friday night. When David mentioned to Rolf that he might have left it at the Elmayer dance studio, Rolf offered to call the studio, find out if they had the case, pick it up and ship it back to us. He checked with the studio a couple of times and it was finally determined the case was not there. As we disembarked today, he apologized that he could not find our case. Definitely beyond our expectations.
Today, Tuesday, December 02, 2008, we arrived at Prague Hilton after an uneventful bus ride from Regensburg, Germany to the Czech Republic. Stay tuned for Prague adventures in our next posting.
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